Wartime austerity curbed the whims of fashion and taste, as materials were hard to come by. Masculine, square lines were counterbalanced with bold ‘cocktail’ jewels, which were striking and dramatic. Designs substituted small and sparse precious gems with large semi-precious alternatives such as aquamarines and citrines. Broad expanses of polished gold in all its colors replaced platinum. Diamonds were very rare. Jewelers revealed a fresh approach to themes of flora and fauna and created naturalistic fantasy amid the devastation of war.